Sliabh League Boat Trip
We met up with Paddy at the Teelin Pier this morning to take his Sliabh League Boat Trip to see the Sliabh Liag cliffs from the water.
These cliffs are the highest in Ireland, rising three times higher than the Cliffs of Moher. The rock formations were incredible and the scene was more like mountains.
Ireland 2024 Log - Day 9
Weather: Cool with gentle but steady rain much of the day.
Today was a longer transit day starting in Doolin and making our way to Ballyshannon for the next stop.
- Left Doolin at 8 AM.
- Drove to Galway.
- Breakfast at Dela.
- Shopping and exploring in Galway: Port West (Tyler Jacket), Butler’s Chocolates (Truffles), Aran Sweater Shop, Weavers of Ireland, Intersport, Life Style Sports (Tyler Jersey), EuroGiant (Tyler Fan), Coffeewerk + Press (Jamie Mug), Wooden Heart (Mazie Maileg Mice), Le Petite Delice (Jamie Scone), Harper (Tammy clothes), The Sheep, and Murphy’s Ice Cream.
- Checked out the Galway Market.
- Drive to Ashford Castle.
- Go on a Hawk Walk!
- Drive to Bundoran.
- Dinner at Blue Leaf.
- Continue to Cria Lodge to check-in.
- Try out hot tub for our first night.
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Guinness in the hot tub tonight outside of Ballyshannon.
The kids meeting the Alpaca that live here at Cria Lodge.
Hawk Walk at Ashford Castle
If I was living hundreds of years ago I would like to have been a person that hunted with a hawk.
On our way to Ballyshannon we stopped at Ashford Castle to experience a Hawk Walk. After completely missing the car park on the first round through we found ourselves back outside the castle grounds getting more thorough directions from the gatekeeper who found us quite amusing. The second time through the gorgeous estate we found it. The castle and estate were amazing on their own. The Guinness family owned it at one point.
We made our way on a nice 10 minute walk through the grounds to the Ireland School of Falconry and started our Hawk Walk with a tour of the facility and seeing some of the 32 hawks that they have there. The Harris Hawks that we would walk with are unique in that they hunt like a pack. They work cooperatively.
We all took turns with Mazie and Tyler starting out with the hawks. We took Walnut and Chestnut out for the walk. The hawks came to the glove quick and obviously knew that the morsels of rat were waiting for them.
We went out on the walk and it was incredible to have these hawks pacing along with us as we went. Anytime you raised the glove they would immediately come. We would then launch them off again and they would fly away. In between they would survey the area and swoop in around us joining along on the walk. Their speed was amazing. They can routinely go 60 miles an hour.
An amazing experience made even more incredible with Ashford Castle as the backdrop. Photos don’t capture this experience that well but the videos really do. The power and grace when the hawk lands on the glove was inspiring.
Enjoying a flat white from Coffeewerk + Press in Galway. Love the graphics on their cups. Delicious coffee.
On Quay Street as we explore Galway.
Final look at Doonagore Castle as we check out of Doonagore Cottage. On to Ballyshannon and a full day in Galway today.
Ireland 2024 Log - Day 8
Weather: Best weather yet. Good amount of sun. Reasonably warm. Not too windy.
Another day spent entirely on foot. Activity for Tammy is 40,995 steps and 95 flights climbed and Jamie 32,498 steps and 81 flights climbed.
- Tammy and Mazie go on independent runs.
- Tyler and Jamie walk to Irish Craft for breakfast. Tyler got pancakes. I got a scone and ham & cheese croissant.
- Tyler, Jamie, Tammy meet at Doolin Inn about 10 minutes early for cliff walk. Mazie arrives 2 minutes late.
- Pat Sweeney collects the group for the amazing Doolin Cliff Hike.
- After completing hike visit the shop at Cliffs of Moher and Tammy gets a purse.
- Take shuttle back to Doolin Inn.
- Shopping at Village Crafts. Tammy and Mazie get hats to vibe with Jamie’s.
- Ice Cream stop at Doolin Ice Cream!
- Chocolate stop at Village Crafts.
- We try our hand at golf at the Doolin Pitch & Putt.
- Everyone is very hungry so walk and have dinner at Stonewall Wood-Fired Pizzeria in Hotel Doolin.
- Walk back to cottage to hang out for a bit.
- Walk back into Doolin for music and Guinness at Gus O’Connors Pub.
- As we lose light, walk back to cottage to wrap the day.
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We got to take in a bit of Irish music tonight at Gus O’Connors in Doolin. The place was packed and it was very warm inside.
Pitch & Putt
We are not a golfing family. I’m not a golfer. The extent of our golfing is really some mini-golf once in a while. But while in Doolin we walked by the Doolin Pitch & Putt and it looked like it might be something we could do.
Many people go to Ireland in part to play on gorgeous golf courses. Our Pitch & Putt was right off the ocean and had some great scenery. Our golf game? As bad as expected. 🤣
Hiking the Cliffs of Moher
I was pretty anxious about today. Today was the day that we did the hike along the Cliffs of Moher.
First of all, I’m fairly scared of heights. Going to the top of tall buildings is not something I look forward to. Being on very tall things with a lot of wind makes me just more uncomfortable. And then you add people that I love to the mix and I’m just a ball of nerves. We did a cliff walk in Ballybunion and that got me spooked a bit and I knew that was beginner level for the heights that we would get on the Cliffs of Moher.
The plus was that we were going with Pat Sweeney of Doolin Cliff Walks. Pat has grown up in this area and he was instrumental in this cliff walk even coming about. He worked with all the farmers that own the land along the way to get hiking routes through and make this a reality for the last 14 years. Pat was calm and confident, but also realistic. He stopped a couple of times along the first half of the hike to remind us of safety and being careful. He shared that accidents do happen on the cliffs. Every year there are people that fall off. Some for doing things that they really shouldn’t be doing. Others because an accident happens. At one of the stops he shared that just four weeks prior a college girl traveling with three friends fell off the cliff. There was flooding on the trail. So they got on the grass edge to avoid the water, which was probably fine. But then there was an oncoming group and she stepped aside to let them go through and lost her footing.
In fairness I know people fall into the Grand Canyon every year and you should always be aware and cautious in places like this. So, that is what I focused on. That and keeping myself firmly in the right place on the trail. The kids were kind to me and realized I was anxious and they did a great job. Tammy was helpful too. In the end, we did it and it was an incredible day with amazing views. All while sometimes just a few feet away from a 600 foot drop. 😬
The walk started very close to the cottage that we are staying in, just down the road. The first stop was to take a moment to take in the area and see Doonagore Castle and appreciate the stone bridge we were walking over that was over 300 years old. The cottage that we are staying in is actually connected with Doonagore Castle and only became an Airbnb recently.
We passed through and along many farms as we went along the coast.
After rising about 150 feet above the ocean the views become more stunning.
There were some stones laid as bridges across streams. Pat commented that this particular stone crossing had been washed out twice by the ocean in the last 10 years.
Our first true view of the cliffs.
There is always wind on this trail.
The “peak” on the left is the highest point we reach as we make our way along the cliffs.
Another warning sign of the extreme danger along the cliffs.
Here we are at the fort after we completed our hike.
The cliffs continue to go along the coastline. You could keep walking for the whole day.
Nice cappuccino from Irish Crafts this morning.
Ireland 2024 Log - Day 7
Weather: Mixed bag. Periods of cool and cloudy, sunny and warm. It rained at times. Quickly changing and variable.
We did everything on foot or bike today — walking between all of our destination.
- Up early to leave cottage at 8 AM.
- Walk 2 miles from cottage to the Doolin pier.
- Stop at Rocket House for breakfast snacks and cappuccino.
- Bumpy ride on Doolin Ferry to Inis Mór.
- Explore Inis Mór.
- Additional shopping in the stores along the Doolin Pier.
- Final shopping stop at Irish Crafts. Tammy ends up getting four sweaters today.
- Dinner at The Ivy Cottage for what most think is the best fish & chips we’ve had on the trip.
- Walk back to cottage.
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Me sporting my Irish look with new Fisherman’s Sweater and Cap. ☘️
Exploring Inis Mór
We took the ferry to Inis Mór to explore the island today. We rented e-bikes from Aran Bike Rental and took off from the port to check things out. We took the more casual green route for our riding.
Our first stop was at the Seal Colony. There were a few seals out relaxing on the rocks.
After that there was this unofficial stop where there were a bunch of cairns that people had created — including one giant one.
We took the bikes as far as we could and parked them at visitor center for Dún Aonghasa. After purchasing a family pass we hiked up to the ruins.
After getting our fill we hiked down and shopped at Aran Sweater Market. Mazie, Tammy, Jamie got sweaters and Jamie got a hat.
Got crêpes from food trailer. Delicious. We then decided to take off and retrieve bikes from bike park and Jamie dropped his bike with the chain dropping off the front gear. This took us a while to get remedied since the chain and gearing was in a fender and the cogs were very worn down. Eventually Jamie got it on and then had to wash the grease off of his hands for a very long time.
After resolving the chain issue we rode up the island to the Seven Churches.
Ride back down to the Kilmurvey Beach for a very brief stop for Mazie to run in the sand.
Somewhat quickly ride back to get to Joe Watty’s Bar & Restaurant for Jamie to have a pub lunch. Beef stew and a half-pint of Guinness hit the spot!
Return bikes to rental spot. Wait in line to get back on ferry, take ferry back.
Map of our day with pins on the various stops we made.
Doolin Ferry to Inis Mór
We took the Doolin Ferry to Inis Mór, part of the Aran Islands. The first 10-20 minutes were pretty bumpy. The ocean swells were sizable and there was a lot of water splashing around. Happily we were in the lower level protected with the windows. Toward the end of the ferry ride Tyler wasn’t feeling (or looking!) very good but luckily he held it together.
Cows grazing by Doonagore Castle this morning.
Woke up to these cows grazing outside our cottage window this morning.
Ireland 2024 Log - Day 6
Weather: Good weather today — partially cloudy and less wind.
- Tammy was up at 8 AM, completely ready to go and prepared by 9 AM. Everyone else awoke shortly after.
- Tammy and Tyler go to Marine Bakery & Cafe for light breakfast.
- We all go for final walk along Ballybunion Beach at low tide.
- Depart Ballybunion for Adare Manor in Adare.
- The best Afternoon Tea ever at Adare Manor.
- Post tea shopping at Adare Store where unexpectedly Tammy buys a jacket and Tyler swim trunks. Jamie gets 1893 Tea to bring home.
- Drive to Doolin.
- Stop at Doolin Lodge, check-in to Cottage at Doonagore Castle.
- Walk to McGann’s Pub for dinner, Guinness, and traditional Irish music set.
- Walk back to cottage.
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